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Helpful hints about sewing
Basic knowledge about the overlock machine
Presser foot for overlock/safety stitch machines

Typical stitch systems of overlock/safety stitch machines areoverlock stitches and safety stitches. Similar to the stitch types, two different types of presser feet are developed; one for the overlock machine and the other for the safety stitch machine.
These presser feet are also different according to the overedging width, needle gauge and gauge size.
This issue describes the role of the stitch tongue and specialpurpose presser feet.


1. Overlock presser foot
(1-needle overlock presser foot, 2-needle overlock presser foot)


Basically, the presser foot for overlock/safety stitch machines consists of a "presser hinge, presser foot and stitch tongue." The "presser hinge" transmits spring forces from the presser spring to the "presser foot." Most of the overlock "presser foot" is of an integral type. Some of the 2-needle overlock presser feet are provided with a "rear foot." The parts of the "presser foot and stitch tongue" differ according to the overedging width.


Overlock presser foot A. Presser hinge B. Presser foot C. Stitch tongue
A. Presser hinge B. Presser foot C. Stitch tongue


2. Safety stitch presser foot

Basically, the presser foot for safety stitch machines consists of a "hinging presser hinge, hinging presser foot and rear foot."
The role of the "hinging presser hinge and hinging presser foot" is similar to that of the presser hinge and presser foot for the overlock machine. The "hinging presser hinge" transmits spring forces from the presser spring to the "hinging presser foot." The rear foot" clamps the seam at the beginning of sewing.
For the safety stitch machine, the "stitch tongue" is integrated with the hinging presser foot. This means that the entire hinging presser foot (presser foot asm.) has to be changed when changing an overedging width or needle gauge.


Safety stitch presser foot a. Hinging presser hinge b. Hinging presser foot c. Rear foot
a. Hinging presser hinge b. Hinging presser foot c. Rear foot


3. Role of the stitch tongue

The stitch tongue has to be changed (gauge changing) when changing the overedging width. Being different from throat plates, stitch tongues are not made specifically for individual overedging widths. Within a certain range of overedging widths, a common stitch tongue is used.
The stitch tongue works to adequately slacken the upper looper thread (overedging thread) to add textures to seams.


•Side view of the stitch tongue base •Side view of the stitch tongue base
•Side view of the stitch tongue base  

The upper looper thread moves from this side of the presser foot toward the rear of it (in the direction of the arrow). At this time, the amount of slack of the thread varies according to the height (thickness) of the stitch tongue base.
* The thread slacks more by increasing the height (thickness) of the stitch tongue base. However, if the base height is excessive, the thread may not be adequately tensed when sewing a heavy-weight material. In addition, the higher stitch tongue base results in a shorter distance between the base and the upper looper. This means, it is necessary to carefully check them for interference and breakage.
* For the safety stitch presser foot, the hinging presser foot is an integrated part. Therefore, the part indicated by the red circle works as the stitch tongue base.
* In the case of the rolled overlocking (merrow overlocking) presser foot, the stitch tongue base projects outward to reach the underside of the throat plate to wrap the cloth cut by the cloth cutting knife.


4. Special-purpose presser foot

For the lockstitch machine, overlock machines have various types of presser feet. This section introduces some of them.

1) Sharp-curve presser foot
This type of presser foot has a narrower width and shorter entire length than the standard presser foot. It is suited to the sewing of small parts and sharp curves of a material.

2) Tape attaching presser foot
For attaching reinforcing tape such as wooly tape and spin tape
* The tape attaching presser foot for overlock machines is bestsuited to the shoulder tape attaching process for knit products. The tape attaching presser foot for safety stitch machines is also available, and can be used for many processes.

3) Tractor presser foot
The front and rear parts of this presser foot are separate to facilitate feeding of multi-layered parts of the material. It also effectively prevents stitch skipping. It is suited to the sewing of heavy-weight materials.

4) Roller presser foot
The presser foot part is of a roller shape. It is suited to the sewing of hard-to-feed cloth or leather.
The presser feet for overlock/safety stitch machines are diversified in specifications according to sewing conditions. Please contact the JUKI distributor in your area for further information.


Tractor presser foot Roller presser foot
Tractor presser foot Roller presser foot

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